Full Immersion—Slow Travel While Listening to the Warm Sounds of Taitung

Are you feeling tired? Come listen to the ocean! Taitung’s ombre blues are so beautiful that your soul will heal at the mere sight of its beauty. The waves of the Pacific will roll over you relaxing your body and spirit. Take your time when strolling down the ocean line and make sure to make a stop at the Jialulan Recreation Area on Provincial Highway 11. There is a 3.2 hectare grassy field that acts as a beautiful seascape observation deck that is also used for large outdoor landscape art exhibitions each year. The recreation area faces the Pacific Ocean with Mount Dulan as its backdrop. With no obstacles in between, you will hear the massive waves roll in from the Pacific, the rhythmic crashing against the cliffs is steady and powerful.

When you are trapped in the concrete jungle, faint sounds—like the ping of your phone’s notifications—are tainted by constant distractions and pestering of your surroundings. It is almost impossible to quiet the mind when you are stimulated by all that is going on around you. When you are at Jialulan, the crashing waves are nature’s low hum, leading us into a tranquil and meditative state. Sit down and enjoy the sea breeze. Close your eyes, focus on your breathing, and enjoy the peace and stillness. （Photo Credit: Taitung County Government）

Bixilian Tribal Village is home to the Amis. As the tribe struggles to maintain it’s population to the cities, mainly only the elderly and children remain in the villages. This causes a rise in issues of cultural fault lines and a lack of learning resources. To cater to the children’s spirit and energy, the leaders and art workers have started a village band. They use fishing nets, buoys, driftwood, and other items scavenged from the beach to make drums and paint totems on them. The Amis word for buoy, “PawPaw” was chosen as the band’s name.
The performance starts, the children are all in sync with the rhythm and they create strong steady beats that flow through their veins. The drumming is paired with traditional Amis’s ballads. Their voices are free and strong. Though you may not understand the lyrics, you will feel the passion and hospitality behind their voices that encourages and lifts each member of the audience up. Come listen to PawPaw Drum Band for an unforgettable experience. （Photo Credit: Taitung County Government）

The guitarist in the band that won the Golden Melody Award for Best Band, Sakinu, decided to move back to Taitung after he completed his contract with the record label. He and his wife, Savi, built their dream location that combines coffee and music—Umaq. “Umaq” is the Paiwanese word for home. They aspire to make an old house that has a soul full of music. The shop offers light meals and coffee, but more importantly, the second floor is designed to be a music workspace. The space can be used by bands for rehearsal, musical performances, and even music lessons. The cafe’s interior has an antique color scheme and is overflowing with an artsy vibe. Enjoy some coffee made with Taitung coffee beans, listen to some music while reading a nice book on the comfortable sofa, and connect with the musical world at your own pace. （Photo Credit: IG@ sakinupavavaljung）

To help entice the Bunun people to remain in their villages and settle on their own land, the Bunun Cultural & Educational Foundation started the Bunun Tribe Leisure Farm which combines tourism, hospitality, arts and culture to help promote the local economy by revitalizing and sharing their aboriginal lifestyle, traditional culture, and crafting techniques.

If you get the chance to visit, don’t miss out on the internationally-famed eight-part polyphony. The singing technique is also quite rare in the history of world music. The eight-part polyphony is also called “Millet Harvest Song,” or “pasi-but-but,” and is often sung at millet harvest festivals and ceremonies. The people imitate the sounds of nature, treating the voices of the land as a gift of life, and showing their gratitude to the heavens by responding to the voice of angels with the voices of man.

Pasi-but-but is commonly composed of 8-12 people. The number of performing members must remain even. Many of the members are three generations from the same family making it an even more meaningful group of performers. The people will gather together and walk in a counterclockwise direction. The performance has no conductor nor sheet music, but the rich harmonies made up of thirds, fifths, and octaves, stack up to become the most beautiful sound that is impressive and moving! The teamwork and unity between the tribal people are also amazing and admirable. Don’t forget to make a phone call reservation if you wish to attend a performance. （Photo Credit: Taitung County Government）

When thinking of the hunter experience, you might imagine spears and arrows. In reality, hunters need not only sharp vision, but also require excellent hearing to be able to track down their prey in the forest. The Bunun people are known for having the best hunters. Visit the Yongkang Tribal Village in Luye and trace their footsteps to the paths of beasts. Explore your senses and observe the rhythm of the woods. You’ll begin to notice the faint and tiny sounds that you won’t hear in the concrete jungle, including the flapping of birds’ wings and the sound of wild boars rustling through bushes.

After your journey through the forest, come into the vast fields and relax your mind and soul. Exit the mountains to visit the guardians of the Yongkang Tribal Village. You’ll be introduced to the Bunun “battle achievement call” where the people stand in a circle and call out their prize from the hunt beginning from the eldest to the youth. The calls are made of clusters of four characters. After they are called out in a rhythmic cry, the surrounding people echo the call. The ceremony bears witness to the brave and heroic actions. They also encourage the next generation to continue this hunting tradition. The experience ends with an eight-part polyphony. Enjoy this feeling of union through the harmonious chime with nature. （Photo Credit: IG@choichoilouis1234）

If you want to listen to authentic, local, live Taitung music, you must not miss the music gathering at Fantasy Tiehua. Fantasy Tiehua is the cradle of local musicians. There are live performances every night from Wednesday to Sunday. This location is a performance venue for aboriginal singers and creators from Taitung. You can enjoy a cocktail on the grassy fields and enjoy full and hearty voices, smooth and lulling tunes, and enjoy the passion and energy that music can bring.